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H I S TO R Y & A R C H I T E C T U R E I S S U E 2 2
to archaeological digs, less than half an hour
by coach. Ephesus is unique, unforgettable.
We leave Asia behind, turning tail for the Greek
island of Crete. Someone has clearly failed to
let Crete know it's winter as I laze around with
the mercury hitting 24°C. Crete is awash with
natural drama, the emerald tree-shrouded hills
that tempt all around hinting at what lies
inland, more Jurassic Park than theme park.
Crete is bathed in history too, not least Chania,
easily one of the most charming cities in
Greece, where the shuttle bus drops us off.
Drifting through the narrow streets is like
leafing through the musty pages of a dusty
historical tome, one I'm still reading when I
spill out on a harbour literally imprinted with
another great civilisation – the Venetians.
The proud lion of St. Mark's is carved into the
stone of the sturdy harbour, which buzzed with
so many ships during its Venetian heyday they
say you could walk across it on the decks of the
ships. It's no mere tourist confection today as
fishermen still work on their nets by the old
storehouses as their brightly painted wooden
boats glisten in the sun-dappled harbour.
That sea day then eases us west, the sea
merging into one with the low-slung winter
sky. We're sailing between Europe and Africa in
a world that feels like neither. Messina
welcomes us in the narrow Messina Straits with
a flurry of church spires and grand façades.
One of the inclusive walking tours (there is at
least one inclusive excursion a day) spirits me
around churches whose saintly names have
now drifted from my mind, but whose soaring
spires and ornate façades are seared deep into
my memory.
The penultimate day brings the Bay of Naples,
shimmering with a sheen of islands beneath
the brooding hulk of Vesuvius, the volcano that
wrought havoc on Pompeii. I pay for the
Pompeii and Pizza excursion, which takes me
back deep into my schoolbooks and distant
memories of being horrified, but still
fascinated, by the citizens – and their pets –
immortalised in volcanic ash. Walking
Pompeii's streets sets my synapses popping, as
does being up close and personal with
Vesuvius.
Clockwise from above: The Venetian harbour of
Chania; Naples pizza; the Acropolis, Athens
Back in Naples I savour pizza – its dough rolled
and baked in front of me. We know for certain
that Naples invented the Margherita pizza, its
tricolour of red tomato, white cheese and
green basil reflecting the Italian flag in honour
of the visit of Queen Margaret in 1889.
Savouring a Margherita in Naples, the past and
the present merge and become indistinct as
they have throughout this cruise through the
centuries. I half expect Queen Margherita
herself to sweep in looking in search of
another delicious slice.
After a rousing last night on board being
wined, dined and entertained yet again in a
style that would befit a Roman emperor –
fitting as we're en route to Rome – I end this
most remarkable of voyages dreaming out over
the sea that has captured my heart and soul
like no other. In just a week, we've swept
from the Greeks to the Romans and on to the
Venetians and the Ottomans. The ancient
world has unfolded with vibrant colours,
flavours and tastes that no TV documentary
or book could ever evoke. I raise a toast
and say skol to the Viking Sky, the
sturdy steed who has guided me on the
thrilling Journey to Antiquities.
Walking Pompeii's streets sets my synapses
popping, as does being up close and personal
with Vesuvius
–
C r ui s e
••
O ve r night in Po r t
GREECE
ITALY
TURKEY
Rome
(Civitavecchia)
Naples
Athens
(Piraeus)
Souda Bay
Crete
Ephesus
(Kuşadasi)
Aegean
Sea
Mediterranean
Sea
Ionian
Sea
Messina
Sicily
VIEW
VOYAGE
Below the streets of Naples
GETTING THERE: An 8-day Journey
to Antiquities itinerary, departing
from Rome to Athens, or in reverse.
