28 V I K I N G C R U I S E S
across the sea-sized Lakes
Ladoga and Onega and finally
into the Volga-Baltic Waterway
that takes us into Moscow. It is a
fascinating journey. Great swathes
of late-autumnal countryside are
broken up by villages and towns
that all have another story to tell
about Russia's multi-layered past
and present.
In the village of Mandrogy,
for example, a group of us take
a traditional Russian banya,
similar to a Swedish sauna, which
involves being doused in freezing
water from the River Svir; at the
UNESCO World Heritage site of
Kizhi, an island on Lake Onega,
we explore almost deserted historic
wooden buildings in the company
of a very good-humoured guide
who explains the significance of the
icons we see in the extraordinary
22-dome Transfiguration Church –
the first of many icons we will see
over the coming days.
A day in Kuzino gives us the
chance to tour the 14th-century
Kirillo-Belozersky Monastery,
followed by a visit to the local high
school: both equally illuminating
in very different ways. In the
beautiful port town of Yaroslavl
we learn that it was the de facto
capital of Russia for a short time in
the 17th century – and also how to
pick a genuine lacquered box from
the many thousands of fakes
on sale wherever you go.
Moscow is yet another
revelation. As in St Petersburg,
there's an almost overwhelming
choice of things to do and places
to see. I hadn't expected Moscow
to be so elegant and rich in historic
Hermitage Museum,
St Petersburg
Metro Hall,
Moscow
St Basils Cathedral,
Moscow
