discovered Mauritius in 1598. The lighthouse was built much later, in 1864, to guide ships through the gap in the otherwise treacherous reef. Little fishing boats, with raked-back sails, leave the safety of the
lagoon and head out to the deep, dark, blue ocean. Waves thunder onto the rocks and while standing below the lighthouse, on a cliff edge, we see a white-tailed tropicbird pirouetting on the wind. This large black and white bird is rare on the mainland now. Ile de la Passe, on the other side of this opening in the reef, had
British barracks with soldiers guarding the strategically important gap. We stroll around the ruins of the men's accommodation and an old chapel. I read early graffiti carved into stone and know that M McGregor was here in 1853 and E Doherty in 1845. On the way back to Mahebourg we stop at a place where a deep
dark channel rises steeply to become shallow aqua water. Sam and I jump overboard and snorkel in this real-live tropical aquarium; a couple of bumbling humans among hundreds of pretty little fish. Tony free dives and cleans the bottom of his boat. Hundreds more
fish gather gleaning the vegetable feast that he scrubs off. They are tiger striped, shiny silver and iridescent blue. The flashing fish, bright bubbles, shimmering dapples of the sun on the sea above and Tony swimming around as effortlessly as a merman make an unforgettable scene. It's a magic moment, one of many in Mahebourg, and though we
fly out the next day we have no regrets about spending time in this small, sweet town. Liz Light Lizlight.co.nz All photographs supplied by Liz Light
Essential Information
Getting There Air Mauritius flies directly from Melbourne to Mauritius each week and has onward flights to London, Paris and Africa. Mauritius is a divine stopover. www.airmauritius.com Getting around: Hire a car at the airport. People drive on the left-hand side of the road. Stay Mahebourg Coco Villa is cheap, clean and has great views. Cocovilla30@ hotmail.com www.mahecocovilla.net Auberge Aquarella, next door, is more stylish but also more expensive. aquarellamu@email.com Stay on Mauritius' north side: LUX* Resorts has seven five-star beachside properties in Mauritius. Legends and Beau Rivage are highly recommended. www.luxislandresorts.com More information: mauritiustourism.org Best Time May to October; the weather is cooler and comfortable.
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