Issue link: https://viewer.e-digitaleditions.com/i/95079
food&wine M udgee has more going for it than meets the eye. Some people still think you can roll into Mudgee, in the NSW Central Tablelands, and simply take your pick of hotels, motels and B&Bs without making a reservation. Wrong. Mudgee is not a sleepy town. It's positively bustling. There's a never-ending raft of events, from film festivals to month-long food and wine celebrations, an endless array of cellar doors and noteworthy towns in the region to explore. When heading to Mudgee, don't leave accommodation to chance. The three- to four-hour drive from Sydney is a journey that takes you along the picturesque Bells Line of Road, across the Blue Mountains, towards Lithgow. Alternatively, if you're approaching Mudgee from the north-east, the drive through the Upper Hunter on the Bylong Valley Way is stunning – a wilderness of dramatic landscapes, soaring eagles, horse studs and the occasional unsealed road. Dubbo, Orange and Bathurst have airports and picturesque drives straight to Mudgee. This hub has become a diverse and exciting town to visit, with a fresh injection of youthful winemakers calling the shots and crafting new styles using unusual varieties. One such winemaker is Jacob Stein, who was recently crowned Australian Gourmet Traveller Young Winemaker of the Year, an honour for both the Robert Stein Winery & Vineyard and Mudgee. "Mudgee has great charm. It's a central township with real characters," Stein says. "There is always plenty to do, wide streets, farmers markets, bustling cafes, local food and a good chance of meeting a winemaker at one of the many cellar doors open seven days a week." Stein believes winemaking in Mudgee has come a long way and is starting to carve a niche for new styles. His 2012 riesling, for instance, won Most Outstanding White Wine at this year's Mudgee Wine Show. I ask him what are the star wine styles of the region. "Aromatic whites are strong while medium-bodied traditional reds are our long-term key varietals," he responds. "Riesling and shiraz would have to be my favourites from my own label but, gee, the cabernet is good as well. And did I mention the chardonnay?" Josh Clementson of Skimstone Wines is another winemaker who has made a big impact with his focus on Italian varietals. Although Skimstone is a young winery, critical acclaim has come quickly; this year they were awarded 28 Clockwise from above: Jacob Stein checking his produce; Logan Wines' stylish cellar door; the terrace at Logan Wines' cellar door.