THE ARCTIC
PART 1, NEWPORT USA AND GREENLAND BY HENK HAZEN
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The story of a seasoned Southern Ocean sailor onboard a superyacht through the North West Passage.
ell, we are finally on our way, heading for the North West Passage, very, very exciting! We cleared the island of Newfoundland entering the Labrador Sea, where we encountered our first iceberg, good stuff! Currently pounding into a 30 knot northerly we have had some good sailing in the last few days. The boat points high into the wind and goes along at a good clip when there is a bit of wind, a great sailor. A few steps back, you might wonder how I got to be on board. Long story as they say, but the crux of the matter is that I became friends with the boat's owner Cristina when she chartered Skip Novak's boat Pelagic Australis seven years ago for an attempt at the NWP while I was working as the mate. This time she invited me along on her own boat as the "high latitude expert" (whatever that might mean).
AN ACCIDENTAL TOURIST IN
Greenland Coast
So I flew into LA on the July 5, and after a long absence from the USA I had forgotten how friendly and approachable everybody is. I had also forgotten how big the meals are, I ordered what I thought was a light lunch at LA airport and a huge bowl arrived, and I had to leave half of it behind. Before I left home I promised that a skinnier me would arrive back in New Zealand at the end of this trip. We arrived on board the good ship Billy Budd in Newport RI at 0200 and started work at 0800, lots to do, so much for the expected easy going superyacht life. It is true what they say, the bigger the boat the bigger the problem. It is all very similar to the maintenance problems on RV Tiama at home, but everything is magnified and more complicated, and of course bigger, including the numbers on the invoices. We went out for a test sail on the first day, trying out new equipment. Most of the gear worked well with some minor hiccups; a good skipper and crew with everybody chipping in where needed and there is a good spirit onboard the boat. We are moored in "superyacht city": too much of a good thing.
Mariacristina Rapisardi, The Boss at Devon island with Muskox
58 Professional Skipper November/December 2012
Yes, beautiful boats, floating works of art, money no problem, who said there was a recession on? But at the same time it is a bit excessive, you could feed half of Africa on the money that is thrown away on some of these boats. At least Billy Budd is operated like an expedition yacht and although she is very flash, one is allowed to walk through the boat and touch the handrails. We departed Newport on the July 9, on a nice day. The skipper has kept everybody busy with safety drills, he has made me the Safety Officer and also asked me to look at all the ship's procedures documenting how she is run. So I have been putting my RYA/ Coastguard instructor's hat on and together we have been busy writing up safety drills, master standing orders etc. The skipper Clive seems easy going and open to input, which is wonderful. From reports it looks like the ice is retreating early this year, at least on the East side of the Arctic, which is good for us trying to make it through the NWP but, it is not good news for the planet if
