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to be memorable and to achieve this we have to ensure we don't over crop. It makes sense doesn't it – smaller crops produce intensity and length (that wonderful lingering sensation) and large crops produce flabbiness. The winemaker now takes over and we like to talk about "lazy winemaking", which means minimal intervention. We let the wild yeasts in the vineyard and winery do the work and we guide the wine through the process gently. Our decisions include much time is spent on lees (spent yeast particles) and how long the wine is left in barrel. At Neudorf we use French oak from a carefully selected coopers (barrel maker). The wine is carefully racked and bottled ideally without filtration, which can rob the wine of some finesse. Sometimes people ask me "What is the secret?" and the answer is so simple. There is no one secret, but rather hundreds of small decisions that must be made with care, and understanding the vineyard and the vine. Great wines have a basis of fruit concentration, length and sense of place – characters that can be formed only in the vineyard. The team here at Neudorf believe their primary task is to grow grapes that express the site, to take the essence of that fruit and then preserve it as wine. On the way they may fine tune the balance and complexity in a number of ways, but the aim is always to allow the site to speak. In working this close to nature there will sometimes be heartache and occasionally celebration; each year there is new promise, but always there is the excitement of discovery. And it is one of the best vocations in the world … creating something of such joy. Judy Finn www.neudorf.co.nz Neudorf Moutere Pinot Noir 2010 Intense, powerful and yet a supremely elegant Pinot Noir with cherry, mineral, spice and nutty oak flavours. It's long and linear – a very classy wine that displays many subtle flavours on its lengthy finish. Accessible now but with good cellaring potential. A wonderfully deep nose of visceral, dried blood notes with a hint of liquorice and spice, larger red and black fruits and very fine tannins. www.neudorf.co.nz William Fèvre Chablis Premier Cru Montmains Chablis is a constant favourite in the Finn household and is freely available in New Zealand. It has a leafy green freshness with notes of creamy greengage and a little subtle vanilla pod. There is a slightly mealy texture to the finish. It is excellent with all fish and perhaps half a dozen Bluff oysters. www.williamfevre.fr 'ABC' Wine Terms Astringency The degree of astringency (how much a wine makes your mouth pucker) depends upon the amount of tannin a wine has absorbed from the skins and seeds of the grapes. A moderate amount of astringency is desirable-it creates a lovely flavor- in many red wine types. Body It's all about how thin or thick the wine feels in your mouth. "Light body" connotes a thin feeling in your mouth. "Medium body" means that a wine is full-flavored, without being too heavy. "Heavy body" means the wine has a robust, round, and very rich feel. Cellar A storehouse or storeroom used specifically for holding wine. Long ago, wine was best kept in underground cellars. Modern methods of insulation and temperature control have transformed the job of storing wine, making it possible for wine "cellars" to be above ground as well. Pegasus Bay Bel Canto Riesling This winery makes many styles of Riesling but this is my favourite. Many winemakers have a love affair with Riesling because it is a wine which can show a sense of place; perhaps more so than other varieties. It cellars beautifully and is lower in alcohol making it a perfect late afternoon wine. www.pegasusbay.com www.hermagazine.co.nz | 99