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With a population of 86 million, it is easy to think that all Vietnamese people own a scooter. The roads are full of them. Traf fic in the major cities is something that needs to be seen to be believed. Despite the vast numbers though, scooter traf fic moves like water. It is constantly flowing, sometimes fast, usually slow and occasionally it will pool due to an obstacle, but then find a way to break through and move on. Walking can prove to be a bit of a challenge, as most footpaths are lined with parked scooters, left there by the locals while they shop or eat. Food and entertainment Vietnam of fers the oppor tunity to sample some truly amazing cuisine. There are said to be nearly 500 traditional dishes, ranging from exotic meats such as bat and cobra, to a variety of fish, vegetables, spices and sauces. As a guide, food in the Central region tends to be spicy, while the Nor thern region cuisine is mild. The Southern region has an understandable accent on pepper, as Vietnam is the world's largest producer of the spice. 'Pho' is the noodle soup eaten at any time of day and 'com' means 'rice dish'. Because Buddhist monks of the 202 www.paradisesonline.com Mahayana tradition are strict vegetarians, many dishes contain tofu, mushrooms and raw, cooked and fermented vegetables. While Vietnamese desser ts such as pastry, sticky rice and beans tend to be a lit tle sweet for foreign palates, the selection of local fruits is amazing. Try green dragon fruit, jujube, longan, pomelo, three-seed cherry and water apple. A word of warning, smoking is still allowed in most hotels and restaurants in Vietnam, so it's advisable to get a table outside or by a window. In Saigon, enter tainment can be found at discos and hotel nightclubs, while bars and cafes are popular throughout the rest of the country. For a local experience, enjoy a 'Beer Hoi' at a road side bar. It's cheap, refreshing and a great way to meet the locals. Shopping Vietnam is known for its handicraf ts, including lacquer ware, mother-of-pearl inlay, ceramics, bamboo products, jewellery, silk goods, intricately carved statues and paintings. In Hanoi, two popular areas are Hang Gai Street and Hang Bong Street which stock embroidered tablecloths, greeting cards with traditional hand-painted silk covers, water puppets, clothing and antiques. In