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area called Varamaso which Hindus hope to visit once in their life. Thousands make the pilgrimage every year to bathe in the Ganges, a sacred river, and visit the holy Viswanath Temple (the domes of which are covered in solid gold) dedicated to Shiva, Lord of the Universe. In the north-west of the country is Rajasthan, with its capital at Jaipur (the Pink City) founded in 1728 by the warrior- astronomer Maharaja Jai Singh. Amritsar is the centre of the Sikh religion and is north-west of New Delhi near the Pakistan border. Chandigarh is a new town designed by the famous French architect Le Corbusier and is the capital of Punjab. North from here is the hill station of Shimla where the former British Government of India migrated every summer. From here it's a short trip to the twin valleys of Kulu and Kangra, which rival the Valley of Kashmir in beauty. Green with orchards and dotted with ancient Rajput forts on the summit of immense crags, these valleys are truly spectacular. In the southwest is the state of Karnataka, blessed with many natural features including majestic evergreen forests, rivers, caves, and a 320 kilometres coastline dotted with unspoilt beaches. Where to stay India offers accommodation in a variety of categories, including deluxe western-style hotels, heritage and palace hotels, travellers' lodges, tourist bungalows, hostels and homestays. 20 www.paradisesonline.com Fully furnished and staffed houseboats are a popular option in coastal areas. The main towns have YWCAs and YMCAs. Getting around City and country tours are offered in India, arranged either by national or state government tourism corporations. The city tours are good value. The rail system is a great way to see the country, and is fairly easy to navigate. Mumbai has the best suburban rail system in India, and Kolkata has a surprisingly efficient, clean underground rail line. Taxis are easy to come by in the main cities as are buses which operate on many suburban routes and are very crowded. Scooter taxis or three-wheelers are convenient, fast and cheap for getting round the cities. They have meters and the drivers speak some English. Chauffeur driven cars carry up to four passengers and their rates depend on petrol prices. There are also rickshaws, particularly in Kolkata and Tongas and Victoria carriages (horse-drawn vehicles) in several cities. Pedal trishaws still operate, mostly in the smaller towns. Food and entertainment Indians are masters at spicing foods and the technique is found in the preparation (grinding and rolling) of the ingredients. Not every dish is a curry—a good deal of food, particularly in the north, is not hot, just richly garnished to provide exciting flavours. Mumbai is famous for its seafood, while Goa has Indo-Portuguese dishes and Chinese food. Tibetan restaurants are plentiful in the hill