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of Stevenson's life by local guides. Other places to visit include the Tiavi Falls, also known as Papapapaitai, the O Le Pupu Pu'e National Park and Papaseea with its smooth rocks which are fun to slide down and swim in the pools beneath. Also worth seeing is Piula Cave pool in the grounds of the Methodist Theological College, and not forgetting the popular To Sua Trench located at the south east coast of Upolu Island. No matter which direction you go, you will regularly pass through nu'u or villages with their distinctive and lovingly decorated churches, large meeting houses and open fale or homes encircling the malae or village green. Food and entertainment The main hotels have restaurants and Samoan feasts or 'Fiafia' nights are held at the larger resorts on a weekly basis. Entertainment includes traditional Polynesian singing and dancing. There are also several clubs and cocktail bars in Apia. Where to stay Accommodation ranges from international standard to traditional fales. Villagers will negotiate private rates as well as home accommodation for budget travellers. Activities Samoa has long been a favourite destination for surfers. Local sporting facilities include golf, tennis, squash, lawn bowls, rugby, soccer and Samoan cricket. There are also numerous marine activities including swimming, snorkeling and diving. Shopping guide A variety of goods made by Samoan families for their personal use are also sold to visitors. Siapo (tapa) cloth is made from mulberry bark, painted with native dyes and is made into mats, hats and baskets. Fugalei Street in Apia, is home to the local fruit markets and just nearby is the f lea market—which sells a variety of souvenirs such as kava bowls, are hand carved from native hardwood and lava lavas (the Samoan sarong). Shell jewellery and Samoan music are also available. ANZ and Westpac are the international banks in Samoa. Both have branches at the international airport, in Apia and at Salelologa on Savaii. Shopping hours are from 8am to noon and 1.30pm to 5pm weekdays and 8am to 12.30pm on Saturday. Getting around The two islands have more than 1800 kilometres of road between them. In Apia, there are taxis and rental cars available. Discovery Rentals has a wide range of vehicles and offers a free pick up and delivery service to most hotels. For those who want to go island hopping, f lights between Apia and Savaii leave daily with Samoa Air and take just 20 minutes. To go by ferry takes around two hours. – 163 – www.paradises.com