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where we cast off cumbersome coats. Logistical bliss. Hands free and hungry for facts we wound past original 12th-century sandstone walls covered in etched hearts— not a graffiti artist's work but original markings by the stonemasons in medieval times. Next, we were plunged into the world of Leonardo da Vinci. "Painting is poetry that is seen rather than felt," the artist famously once said—and Frédéric explained how Da Vinci invented atmosphere (by applying subtle layered glazes). He also theorised that some facial features of Da Vinci's apprentice, Salaì, could have been immortalised in the Mona Lisa. They had most likely been romantically involved (and forced to keep this quiet at the time). "Her name is even an anagram of Mona Lisa," said Frédéric. "Mon Salaì." After Paris, the itinerary usually takes guests up to Rouen and the Normandy beaches. On this abridged version we went as far as Vernon, where some chose walking and others hopped on a coach to Giverny—the village where Claude Monet lived from 1883 until his death in 1926. When visiting between April and November you can explore his green-shuttered house and the glorious gardens which inspired so many of his paintings. Cruises are so often surprising. Sometimes the most enduring memories emerge from unexpected experiences or a happening in lesser-known locales. A rural mooring at La Roche-Guyon flung us into nature soon after the city. Some took a walking tour of the local castle. I opted to run a sun-drenched trail along the hillside and up to the castle keep at the top—and what a payoff with views of the Seine snaking into the horizon. If you like a quaint French village with a side of history, La Roche will tick that box. One highlight was meeting the captain, François Bertin, in the ship's wheelhouse. He explained that during the eight-day cruise there are many locks to pass through with the narrowest being 12 metres wide—fortunately we would squeeze through as he revealed the Seine ships were 11m 45cm wide. Next, he demonstrated how to decrease the height of the ship to pass under low-lying bridges— overall there are 135 on the Paris to Rouen route (69 downstream from Paris to Rouen, and 66 upstream). With the press of a button, we were suddenly descending with the roof aligning with the top deck. "In the case of normal water level on the river, we need to put down the wheelhouse for about 11 bridges between Paris to Le Pecq," explained Bertin, adding that sometimes near Rouen, due to tide impact, it might need to be lowered again for a further six bridges. On leaving the wheelhouse, I noticed solar panels and discovered that shore power is available at 13 docking sites along the way, which reduces the ship's carbon footprint. The Viking Radgrid is also fitted with ecologically friendly hybrid engines that produce fewer vibrations making movement smoother. A bucket list moment was seeing the golden gates at Versailles, which were restored 14 years ago with 100,000 gold leaves to the tune of AU$8.1 million. It's difficult to believe such an opulent palace began life as a humble hunting lodge chosen by Louis XIII because it was the nearest forest to the city. He had first discovered it in 1607, but did not return until after he was king in 1621. Once again, our guide was a treasure trove of stories and historical anecdotes. I was enraptured by the oil painting of Marie Antoinette and her children by Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun, the first woman to achieve "painter of the king" status. Marie Antoinette was apparently very close to her children, which was unusual for nobility in the 18th century, and she was devastated by two of their deaths. Tragically, after revolution broke out, she was separated from her remaining children (and her husband Louis VI) until execution in 1793. The opulent Hall of Mirrors and the striking artwork adorning the ceiling of the Hercules Salon were as jaw dropping as I had hoped. Left to right: The Louvre Museum Pyramid, Paris; Arched walkway in Paris. Explore the heart of Paris 21 | Viking Explorer Society News