who, according to legend, lured sailors
into treacherous rapids with her beauty.
Rüdesheim, the next port, is a little
gem. Half-timbered buildings abound,
especially along the delightful medieval
alley Drosselgasse, where I stopped at a
cute tavern for a glass of local wine.
Speyer proved one of my favourite stops.
Not only does it boast a sandstone cathedral
with green copper roofs and domes, there's
the vast Technik Museum with every mode
of transport imaginable. Both are within
an easy walk of the Viking berth.
By now we were used to the relaxing
yet stimulating atmosphere on board,
enhanced by tasty regional cuisine and
traditional music from live performers.
I especially enjoyed the sausage buffet
with wandering Oompah band.
At Strasbourg we crossed the border into
France. After noting the sheer scale of the EU
institutions—and the storks' nests along the
leafy streets—we arrived at Petite France.
This medieval quarter is exquisite, with
buildings looming above picturesque canals
and flowers everywhere.
than 600 years—it was the tallest building
in the world.
Koblenz marks the start of the dramatic
gorge and the city is a perfect introduction
to the classic German scene of cobbled
streets and squares hemmed in by
handsome medieval buildings. I would
recommend an optional excursion to
Marksburg, probably the best-preserved of
the region's riverside castles. Its 92 metre
perch offers a superb view over the Rhine.
Everyone on board ensured they were
out on deck to view Pfalzgrafenstein, a
castle set on a gravel island in the middle of
the river that looks like it is floating. We
imagined how easy it must have been to
collect those greedy tolls from such a
vantage point.
Later, we curved round the giant, tilted
Lorelei Rock. It is named after a maiden
Cologne Cathedral,
Cologne, Germany
"As we glided past
dozens of ancient
castles, their deep and
sometimes grisly history
was brought to life with
a live commentary from
our Cruise Director."
Cologne Cathedral:
The Epitome of Gothic Grandeur
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