Viking Cruises

26 | Europe's Christmas Markets Destination Guide A next-level sausage sizzle is a highlight of each market. First up is a Hungarian kielbasa served in a roll with sauerkraut; midway there's Austrian cheese-stuffed käsekrainer; and the last, in Passau, a German bratwurst and a squirt of mustard. It is, in the words of a Christmas cracker, the best of times, the wurst of times. Sweetwise, there's always a queue for kürtÅ'skalács, the Hungarian chimney cake, at least 20 strudel flavours, and crêpes filled with Nutella, but it's the bauernkrapfen, a crisp German doughnut, that dances in my head like sugarplums. In Passau, as part of the included daily tour, I learn the secrets of gingerbread- making from an accredited baker and owner of Simon Confiserie. When the store was established in 1903, it doubled as a candle shop, the bees doing all the busy work making honey, but also wax for the candles. All the markets have cheerful beer-garden vibes but with hot drinks instead of cold lagers. Cauldrons of gluhwein – aka mulled wine – flavoured with the traditional festive spices cinnamon, star anise, cloves, and cardamom, plus warm, fruity alcoholic punches made with spirits (and Christmas spirit!) are plentiful. I order a different flavour every day and not going to lie – I don't like any of them, but the rosy-glow it brings the people sipping it around me prove I'm an outlier. TOUR NOTES: Back on board Kadlin the menus and are just as tempting and the mood as convivial. On the first night, we assemble in the Aquavit lounge to trim the tree; another night we compete in Christmas trivia (I'm on the winning team). The Advent Choir of Bratislava joins the ship one evening and the sextet of tenors and baritones sings carols. It's the second time that day we hear "Silent Night" – the first by a soloist with accompanying organist in the Church of the Merciful Brothers – and not the last. In Austria we're told the first performance of "Stille Nacht" was in Salzburg on December 24, 1818, and the rest is Christmas history. BONUS TIP: Viking allows guests to bring their own alcohol on board and drink it in their rooms or public spaces so if you happen upon a great German riesling, skol to you. BEST THINGS TO BUY AT EUROPE'S CHRISTMAS MARKETS I've come on the trip with an empty stomach, but many of the other passengers have come with an empty suitcase – amid all the eating and drinking, it's time to start shopping. In the Austrian and German markets, glass Christmas decorations grouped in colours shine and glisten. There are intricately carved wooden music boxes and elaborate candle arches with nativity scenes or treescapes. Most stalls in Hungary and Slovakia are food- related so as well as eat-now options, there are gifts of macarons and chocolate, gingerbread and honey biscuits, cured meats, and preserves. The most portable to bring back to Australia is paprika. It's the spice of the region PASSAU, GERMANY

• Cover