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WHAT TO SEE AND DO Kick off your journey with a visit to the top of Bab Zuweila, an 11th- century gate with breathtaking views of the city below. After admiring Mamluk-era splendor, let the sounds and smells of Khan el-Khalili transport you back to the golden era of the Silk Road. Once you've had a heritage fix, sample a slice of Egypt's future. Townhouse Gallery was the city's first independent art space. Housed in a converted paper factory in downtown Cairo, it was instrumental in the redevelopment of the area, including the opening of the 150-seat Rawabet theater. Cairo's Museum of Egyptian Antiquities is home to the treasures of Tutankhamen's tomb and a statue of Khufu, the builder of one of the Great Pyramids of Giza. Manial Palace's Islamic glasswork, Turkish carpets and colonial interiors are a feast for the eyes, and offer insight into Cairo's wealthy elite during the early 20th century. Coptic Cairo is part of Old Cairo and home to some of the country's oldest churches, including the Hanging Church. The Citadel of Salah el-Din is the best place to get a view of the whole city, sprawling out as far as Giza's pyramids on a clear day. The Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan is one of the city's most spectacular mosques; take time to admire the marble panels and muqarnas (stalactite vaulting). WHERE TO SHOP Egyptians have been bargaining, buying, wheeling and dealing at the Khan el-Khalili souk since the 14th century. While here, keep an eye out for some of the marketplace's beautiful cotton clothes and brassware, and be sure to go upstairs to the souk's quieter levels. For fixed prices and superior quality, Souk al-Fustat near Coptic Cairo features artisan and co-op pottery, recycled products, and Nefertari, a manufacturer of beautifully scented natural body care products. WHERE TO DINE Founded in 1908, Café Riche just moments from Tahrir Square is legendary. Through revolutions and upheaval, it has hosted academics, politicians, spies and journalists; soak up the history over a Turkish coffee. Worth a visit, Felfela prides itself on authentic cuisine and Egyptian decor. Upmarket Zamalek is the place to go for brunch. Abou Tarek is a modest local haunt and one of the best places to sample kushari— a flavourful mix of rice, lentils, chickpeas and macaroni topped with cumin and onions. Clockwise, from left: The Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan; Turkish coffee; Khan el-Khalili souk; Felucca sailing on the Nile viking.com 71