Issue link: https://viewer.e-digitaleditions.com/i/1534783
WHAT TO SEE AND DO As with most Spanish cities, religion is omnipresent. Salamanca's two cathedrals are contrasting and dominant landmarks – the Gothic Catedral Nueva (New Cathedral), dating back to 1513, is the more striking, while the medieval Catedral Vieja de Santa María (Old Cathedral) offers a more atmospheric experience. No visit to Salamanca is complete without a stop by one of the oldest universities in the world, the Universidad de Salamanca, founded in 1218. Offering a visual feast, the University's 16th century sandstone entrance façade draws crowds with its tapestry of mythical heroes, religious scenes, and coats of arms. Inside is also one of the oldest libraries in the world, which houses 160,000 leather- bound volumes underneath a fine late-gothic techumbre (carved wooden ceiling). Art-lovers will enjoy Museo Casa Lis which houses one of Salamanca's best art collections of sculptures, paintings, and art deco and art nouveau pieces, but it's the building, a light-filled Modernista (Catalan art nouveau) house, that is the real drawcard, featuring a vast stained-glass roof in one atrium and a beautiful ironwork and glass façade at the back of the building. Also, not to be missed is Casa de las Conchas (House of Shells), a medieval building built by a Knight of Santiago who attached 300 carved scallop shells onto the exterior of the building in homage to the Camino de Santiago (a pilgrimage walk to Santiago de Compostela). WHERE TO SHOP The best places to shop in Salamanca are along the pedestrianised streets of Calle Toro and Zamora, the main avenues heading north from Plaza Mayor, or between the Plaza and the cathedrals. Here you will find numerous souvenir stores, boutiques, jewellers, and traditional art and craft shops. Keep a lookout for filigree work or the typical Salamanca button. Foodies who want to stock up on cured meats, such as jamón de bellota, and other regional specialties can find these at delicatessens or in the Central Market. WHERE TO DINE For traditional fare, restaurant El Meson De Gonzalo has, over three generations, perfected the art of slow-cooked suckling lamb and is well-known for its patatas bravas (roasted potatoes in a spicy tomato sauce). At Cuzco, dine on simple dishes of grilled meat and fish in the restaurant or perch at the cosy bar with plates of regional specialities. For something sweet, Valor, an unassuming café, is possibly home to Salamanca's best sweet treats. A churros and a hot chocolate will offer the perfect respite from a busy day of sight-seeing in the city. Opposite page: Salamanca Cathedral This page: Spanish churros; Casa de las Conchas (House of Shells); Plaza Mayor viking.com 77