When I spied the Black Forest e-bike ride
in the list of optional activities at
Breisach, it sounded like the perfect way
to stretch my legs, get off the beaten track
and explore an area of southern Germany
known for its beauty: an eight-hour route
through landscapes that inspired the
Brothers Grimm tales, and a chance to
tuck into the famous gateau.
I selected and adjusted my bike to the
right height and took a test ride to check
I hadn't defied the old 'you never forget to
ride a bike' adage. Then, helmet clasped,
listened attentively as our guides, Lydia
and Nick, talked through the plan for the
day, took our lunch order and explained
the bike settings.
It was a wonderful start, following a
traffic-free trail along the banks of the
Rhine which sparkled beneath the
cloudless sky; swans casually gliding and
preening and red kites scouting with
predatory intent overhead.
We ducked off the path and onto a
woodland track, keeping eyes peeled for
the wild pigs, deer and woodpeckers we
were told roamed these parts. Wild garlic
scented the air, while the sound of wood
pigeons, and crunch of wheels over twigs
provided the soundtrack.
We popped out the other end to meet a
babbling brook and weaved through
sprawling farmland, where young
strawberry plants grew under the warm
comfort of plastic and asparagus
protruded from earthy mounds. After an
hour, we pulled into a little village farm
shop, where a glass cabinet of homemade
bakes were laid out for us to select from.
It had to be a giant slab of Black Forest
gateau for me, which was by far the
best I've ever had.
By 1pm, we'd zipped through
many a picturesque village, past a
community garden bursting with tulips,
a 12th-century castle bordered by vines,
and settled into the 14th-century
former laboratory of Dr Faust (the
protagonist of many a local legend).
Sufficiently-fuelled we embarked on the
second half of the ride, starting as we were
warned it was going to continue, with a
steadily growing ascent until we reached a
tiny village marking the start of Black
Forest proper. Up and up we went,
through the Black Forest magic I'd
envisioned: curvaceous green hills
dipping down to winding streams
hugged by stone bridges.
Fairytale farmhouses, goats grazing,
and birds twittering melodically, I
half-expected to pass brightly coloured
toadstools and a wolf in red clothing.
We continued along an interchanging
mix of quiet roads and forest-lined tracks,
following our guides like the children of
Hamelin, captivated by the landscape.
The feeling when we pulled into our final
destination, a family farm and restaurant,
was one of giddy accomplishment. 41km,
with or without the e-push, is a good
distance. Homemade schnapps were
poured and we clinked glasses to the
fantastic journey we'd ridden together.
Exploring the Black Forest on e-bike
viking.com
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