Viking Cruises

The included walking tour led me to view the old town square where a restored temple to the first Emperor of Rome, Augustus, and his wife Livia, dominates the surrounding buildings and remains marvellously intact. It even survived conversion to a Christian church in the 5th Century. Arriving at Viviers, known for its well-preserved medieval town, I had the opportunity for a night tour which was to take guests up the steep cobbled streets up to the top of the hill for a panoramic view, after another delicious three-course dinner with wine earlier that evening onboard Viking Helmad. Our guide, Frances, had lived in the town for over thirty years and had inherited her house from her aunt. She was one of around 32 residents who lived at the top of the hill near the 12th century St Vincent, the smallest active cathedral in France. The walking tour began with a stroll along a lovely, tree-lined boulevard which was lit with the orange glow of lamplight. It was a quiet and eery night which gave the city centre a sense of timelessness. I walked through a narrow street which had been the old Jewish quarter of the town. Viviers had been one of the few towns which had shown tolerance to its Jewish residents in renaissance times. I passed into the medieval old part of the town, through cobbled squares and narrow lanes twisting and turning and increasing in incline as I neared the top. I passed the lavish façade of the 16th century 'Maison des Chevaliers', decorated with men on horseback and built by a rich salt merchant. At the summit of the hill, I paused to view the town at night, which was enchanting with the lights of the river, twinkling in the distance down below. Our guide showed me a plaque commemorating Pope Julius II, who later commissioned Michaelangelo to paint the Sistine Chapel in Rome, who was previously the Bishop of Viviers. Perhaps he got his sense of grandeur during his time at Viviers which remains the smallest city in France to have a cathedral, with only a population of around 3,000 inhabitants. On the way back down the hill our guide pointed out the street where she lived next to St. Vincent's wall and how when she was renovating, she found a secret room where her aunt had hidden allied airmen during the war. She also mentioned how she had attended part of the trial of the infamous Klaus Barbie, in 1987, to stand witness to him receiving his just deserts on behalf of her aunt and her fellow resistance fighters. It is this kind of personal insight into the history that make the Viking guides unique and unforgettable. Onwards to Arles, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and there was an option to see more famous Roman ruins, but I opted instead for a Van Gogh workshop. Along with a small group of other guests, I visited the studio of a local artist and teacher, and I spent the morning attempting to emulate painting in the style of the gifted and tragic Vincent Van Gogh. Van Gogh lived in Arles for one year from 1888 and it is where he became friends with fellow artist Gaugin. The superlative golden light that bathes the town and beautiful countryside created perfect conditions for artists and it is where Van Gogh painted over 200 paintings including some of his most famous including, Vincent's Chair and Starry Night Over the River Rhône. Their friendship was volatile and after a heavy confrontation Vincent famously cut off part of his left ear. The artist leading our session required no such gory trophy and after pleasant hours mixing colours and recreating a small part of 'Almond Blossom,' the original was painted for Van Gogh's namesake nephew, I happily left with both ears intact. The workshop had both complete beginners and accomplished painters, and we all enjoyed the experience. It is this kind of personal insight into the history that make the viking guides unforgettable O p p o s i t e L y o n f r o m t h e t o p o f N o t r e D a m e d e F o u r v i e r e B e l o w S a m t a k e s p a r t i n a p a i n t i n g w o r k s h o p , e m u l a t i n g t h e w o r k o f V a n G o g h viking.com 43

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