Viking Cruises

Dropped off within a two-minute walk of these huge pharaohs' tombs, we explore the base from every angle and climb upon the lowest limestone blocks that are accessible to tourists. There are no crowd, no queues, but plenty of camels and security guards, including a discreetly armed escort provided to Viking by the government. Only one person from our group decides to venture inside. The passageway is claustrophobically narrow and hot on this 40C day, and it leads to an empty chamber. We move on to the Great Sphinx, about 1km away, which is very busy by late afternoon. Most people come to pose for the classic photo, nose to nose with the gigantic sculpture, but it's still an unforgettable spectacle. The souvenir vendors are out in full force; however, our guides do an admirable job of waving them away. After three days based at the Fairmont Nile City hotel in Cairo, our contingent of 80 guests takes a flight to Luxor to board Viking Osiris. Launched in August, the newest ship on the Nile is a calming haven staffed by local crew, with spacious ensuite cabins and two restaurants. The decor displays Viking's signature sleek, Scandi style, and communal areas include a huge shaded sundeck, elegant lounge where passengers converge for ice-cool drinks after a day's sightseeing, and an indoor-outdoor dining terrace. Wrapping the stern, a curvaceous pool offers respite from the heat. Docked next to Karnak Temple, our first shore excursion could not be more convenient. Karnak is the largest religious complex in the world and one of the finest examples of ancient Egyptian architecture, constructed and extended over two millennia from 2050 BC until the Roman period. For the first time, restoration works are removing layers of dust and mud from the 134 towering columns, revealing their original colours. It's one of the many sites that have been impressively restored in the past two years, prompted by a slump in tourism. At sunset, we visit Luxor Temple, beautifully lit up and accompanied by evocative chanting from a mosque. Then, we are fortunate to stroll along the adjacent Avenue of Sphinxes, which has finally reopened after decades of delays. A b u S i m b e l Te m p l e viking.com 31

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