T
he last place you'd
expect to see an
astronaut is on the
portal of an ancient
cathedral.
e building of Salamanca's
New Cathedral began in 1513,
but in 1992 the magnificent
structure needed some
restoration work.
With permission from the
diocese, the stone-carvers added
a couple of modern touches to
the ornate vine-leaf and animal
depictions already surrounding
the cathedral's main entrance.
On the next column to
the astronaut, the carvers'
other playful signature is a
wicked-looking beast eating
an ice cream, said to represent
the students of Spain's oldest
university, found in the city.
Salamanca, called the Golden
City because its grand sandstone
architecture glows in the sun,
was the furthest point on my
Portugal's River of Gold journey.
Leaving Viking Helgrim where
the Douro crosses the border, we
had boarded the smart Viking
coaches that accompanied us
throughout our journey to
drive up through the olive and
almond groves and across into
Spain.
I love the little nuggets of
information, like the astronaut
and the tiny frog – a good-luck
charm similarly on the façade of
Salamanca's university – that are
dug out by the best guides.
We also learned that the devil
is in these details, notably at
the city's 15th-century House
of Shells. In its inner court, I
noticed the well in the centre
had been placed at a wonky
angle. Poor workmanship? No,
explained our guide; the devil is
attracted to perfection, so the
This page: The
incredible urban
skyline of Porto
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