Viking Cruises

14 VIKING I t is early morning in Montenegro's quaint port of Kotor and beneath the town's ancient walls, market stallholders are busily unpacking their wares. Under cool arcades, the air ripens to the smell of fresh fish, mountain cheeses and cured meats, while outside in the blazing sun, wasps hungrily buzz around pyramids of fat cherries and figs. All at once, the atmosphere changes; the stallholders' leisurely banter ceases as along comes Willy Moors – the Executive Chef of Viking Sea. Dressed in trademark whites, Willy is very much a man on a mission and, as he begins scrutinising the stalls, everyone stops to watch. Kotor is one of the highlight ports on our 10-day Empires of the Mediterranean voyage and this Chef 's Market Tour excursion, in which I'm joined by my son Felix and his girlfriend Lydia, promises to be the icing on the cake. As Willy zips around, asking questions and prodding at this and that, the excitement is palpable. I'll return to Kotor and indeed Willy's delicious dinner later. Firstly, I should explain what might appear to be an anomaly for regular Viking guests. Our son and his girlfriend are just 26 years old, below the average Viking demographic. However, the trip was entirely my son's idea. Sure, my husband and I are huge fans of Viking, but a while back Felix was browsing through the brochures we received and promptly suggested a voyage together. Like many millennials, he and his girlfriend love anything Scandinavian, so the Nordic-chic vibe on all Viking ocean ships proved a big pull. Another appeal of the itinerary was the small ship size and the understated beauty of the Viking Sea. After our first day in Athens where we whizz around the Archaeological Museum, Felix and Lydia are swiftly appreciating their air-conditioned second home. In Santorini, I catch the tender over from where Viking Sea is at anchor. Morning sun glints off the blue domes of the island's churches, their colour a perfect match to the fathomless blue sea beneath ira's steep cliffs. On board, there is much to delight: excellent piano recitals during afternoon tea at the Wintergarden; my growing addiction for the Pool Grill's seared tuna; and gorgeous port- themed dinners in e Restaurant. Our kids develop a fondness for Mamsen's waffle breakfasts and drinks in the Explorers' Lounge. By day six, the milky-blue Adriatic is our backdrop; each evening ushering in stunning sunsets. At Zadar, we find another version of Dubrovnik – thankfully without the Game of rones theming that has blighted its neighbour. Yet it is Kotor above all ports that really wows. Founded by the Romans, then taken by the Venetians, it endured a pattern of brutal takeovers until it gained independence in 2006. As we listen to a commentary from Viking resident historian, Dr Brian Babcock, Kotor's magical setting unfolds. e town sits at the mouth of a narrow 17-mile inlet and is wedged between tree-freckled karst mountains that fall to a Quink-blue sea. Of course, we have the benefit of Willy Moors' market shopping expertise. Back on board that evening, in e Kitchen Table, Willy is sprinkling herbs from a great height and frying pan flourishes when something delicious starts to sizzle. e dinner? A creative amalgamation of all his purchases: a Caprese- style salad of oxheart tomatoes and Skripavac cheese, then pan-fried seabream with wilted leeks, olive tapenade and champagne sauce. And most delicious: beef tornedos with Montenegrin porcini and mascarpone mashed potatoes. We have little room for pudding – but one look at those caramelised local figs and warmed cherries topped with blueberry Chantilly, and our stomachs decide: it would be extremely rude to desist. By day six, the milky-blue Adriatic is our backdrop; each evening ushering in stunning sunsets

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