Issue link: https://viewer.e-digitaleditions.com/i/1534778
Opposite page: Francesinha meal, Outside at Francesinha. Clockwise, from above: Croquettes from Pastel de Bacalhau, Making of Croquettes, Inside Bolenhos de Bacalhau, Pateis de Nata's, People enjoying Petiscos viking.com 43 PASTEIS DE NATA Crusty, crunchy, caramelised and creamy – that's the promise delivered by these iconic custard tarts. It's worth seeking out the originals, known as pasteis de Belem, at the ever-crowded, blue-tiled Antiga Confeitaria de Belem, which sells 10,000 of these flaky, crisp-bottomed tarts every day. Take the tram to the historic district of Belém six kilometres west of Lisbon, and eat them warm from the oven, dusted with cinnamon and sugar, with a strong black bica (espresso). It will ruin you for ordinary, everyday custard tarts forever more, but it's worth it. Antiga Confeitaria de Belem, Rua de Belem, 84-92, Lisbon Tel: 21 363 7423 www.pasteisdebelem.pt BOLENHOS DE BACALHAU For 2,000 years, the Portuguese have been curing fish with salt and drying it in the sun to preserve it. Bacalhau, or salt cod, is an essential part of Portuguese cuisine, known as the "faithful friend" of the people. Croquettes of salt cod known as bolenhos or pasteis, bound with potato and deep-fried to golden crispness, are the most fun way to get your salt cod fix. Buy them from a tasca (family-run café) in Porto, or dine at the upmarket Laurentina or A Casa do Bacalhau for the full experience. With twelve branches across Porto, ambitious newcomer, Casa Portuguesa de Pastel de Bacalau, goes for drama, presenting a single salt cod croquette with a melting heart of Serra da Estrella cheese, together with a glass of white port as a package deal. pasteldebacalhau.pt PETISCOS Majestic street kiosks (quiosques) selling simple snacks and drinks have been part of Lisbon's culture for 100 years. So have petiscos, the local answer to Spain's tapas, in which you cover the table with small dishes. Now one of Portugal's most talked-about chefs, Nuno Mendes, who made his name with experimental Viajante and Portuguese Lisboeta in London, has returned home to take over the oldest and most beautiful quiosque in Lisbon. Petiscos is not just a way of eating, but a way of living, dipping into colourful octopus salads, crunchy calamari (squid) sandwiches, platters of anchovies and salt cod croquettes on little tables shaded by old trees, with a glass of fresh, light Portuguese wine or the local vermut. Quiosque de Sao Paulo, Praça de São Paulo, Cais do Sodré @quiosque.saopaulo