H I S TO R Y & A R C H I T E C T U R E I S S U E 2 2
viking.com | 17
W
hat must be one of the
finest walks around the
Adriatic takes quite an
effort, even though it is
barely 2km long. Dubrovnik in Croatia is one
of few cities rimmed completely by intact
medieval walls and a hike around the top of
the fortifications is almost a duty for those
with a fair degree of fitness. Puffing up and
down the steps brings great rewards – the
vistas down on the handsome stone buildings
and across the red roofs to the blue sea and
green isle of Lokrum are unforgettable.
This compact city dates back to the 12th
century and although many buildings were
destroyed by an earthquake in the 17th
century, they were replaced with even more
precious architecture, particularly in the
Baroque style. It must have been so easy for
UNESCO to bestow Dubrovnik with World
Heritage status. Everyone enters the city
through the drawbridge-protected Pile Gate
– and suddenly you are transported into a
different world. The main street, Stradun,
starts here, its limestone pavement worn
shiny by the feet of millions across the
centuries. You'll immediately see one of my
Aerial view of
the harbour; Fort
Lovrijenac
e vistas down on the
handsome stone buildings
and across the red roofs
are unforgettable.
favourite monuments, Onofrio's Fountain, its
16 sides each featuring a carved mask and
spout.
Off Stradun, which is lined with little shops
and cafés, alleyways rise steeply on one side
and disappear into a maze of tiny streets on
the other. As you explore, your guide will point
out the wealth of treasures such as the very
grand Rector's Palace, the Franciscan
Monastery with distinctive bell tower and the
little Renaissance St. Saviour Church. The
impressive Assumption Cathedral at the end of
Stradun is a most appropriate focal point for
the city. I also like to wind my way through to
the diminutive City Harbour, a sanctuary for
pleasure and fishing boats. Quite a few scenes
from Game of Thrones were filmed in
Dubrovnik. Descend the Jesuit Staircase and
you'll be following in the footsteps of Cersei
Lannister on her infamous walk of shame.
For lunch, the various alleyways conceal an
array of cafés and restaurants with tables in
the street. But if you have free time, I have two
strong recommendations. Make your way to
the upper part of the city and just beyond the
walls is the lower station of the cable car. A
gondola will whizz you up the hill, from where
the view down to the city will give you a deep
appreciation of why Dubrovnik attracts so
many visitors from around the world.
Go back out of Pile Gate and you can't miss
Fort Lovrijenac, a formidable structure atop a
giant rock. A full investigation involves more
steep steps, but again offers the promise of a
magnificent panorama of the walled city. You
may wish to round off your day with a spot of
shopping for Croatian art and ceramics, local
olive oil, lavender products and jewellery.
Those fortunate enough to have visited the
city before could join an excursion to Cavtat, a
sweet little seaside town with an inviting,
tree-shaded promenade that's perfect for
strolling and coffee-sipping. But for those who
have never been to Dubrovnik, you are in for
some marvellous medieval magic.
Dubrovnik's Franciscan Monastery
