Viking Cruises

24 | Eastern Europe Destination Guide DJER DA P N ATION A L PA R K , SER BI A Up we go, led by a national park guide to a scenic viewpoint, where we snack on Serbian sweets while absorbing the beauty of the Iron Gates from above. In the distance I spot Viking Lofn, a child's toy floating in a ribbon of blue. It's early evening when we cruise into Golubac, an after-hours tour of the illuminated fortress an appetiser before our speciality Taste of the Balkans dinner. I forgo the main onboard restaurant for a table for two on the Aquavit Terrace, a quiet indoor/outdoor alternative at the bow of the ship with 180 degrees of floor-to-ceiling glass doors. Meals aboard the rivership are a highlight, with relaxed three- course lunches and elegant four-course dinners, which also include regional specialities (who knew something called Transylvanian sour soup could have such a bite) and a range of classic "always available" Western favourites. Cruising overnight brings us to Belgrade, the former capital of the state of Yugoslavia, and today's Serbian capital, where, during an early morning stroll through Kalemegdan Park I come eye-to-rump with a set of naked male buttocks. No, no, not fleshy ones – that would be too much before my first coffee – but a 14-metre high sculpture known as The Victor monument, built to honour the victory of the Serbian army over the Ottoman and Austrian-Hungarian empires. Sans uniform, he is said to belong to "all people". The city is an easy walk from where we are docked, and with an 8pm departure, I have time to explore further afield on an afternoon bike excursion followed by an impromptu dinner in Skadarlija, Belgrade's bohemian quarter. CROATIA TO HUNGARY: From conflicts to cowboys To many, Croatia can represent little more than Dubrovnik, that over-touristed "Pearl of the Adriatic" in the far south of the country. But here on the Danube in the north-eastern town of Ilok we find ourselves inside a Baroque-style palace, built on the foundations of a 15th- century castle, with not another river cruise ship or Game of Thrones fan within sight. Known as Odescalchi Palace, this "Noble of the Danube" is now a museum, housing an exquisite collection of artefacts from the early Roman period, Middle Ages to modern times. The museum is normally closed on Mondays but has been opened today just for Viking passengers. Afterwards, we descend 12 metres underground to the castle's 500-year-old wine cellar, where priceless bottles are still kept, some vintages famously served during the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II and the wedding of Charles and Diana. Feeling like monarchs ourselves, we head to the tasting room to learn about local varietals such as Grasevina and Traminac. Cruising to Vukovar we have more sobering lessons to learn. Known as

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