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PASTEIS DE NATA
Crusty, crunchy, caramelised and creamy—that's
the promise delivered by these iconic custard
tarts. It's worth seeking out the originals, known
as pasteis de Belem, at the ever-crowded, blue-
tiled Antiga Confeitaria de Belem, which sells
10,000 of these flaky, crisp-bottomed tarts every
day. Take the tram to the historic district of Belém
six kilometres west of Lisbon, and eat them warm
from the oven, dusted with cinnamon and sugar,
with a strong black bica (espresso). It will ruin you
for ordinary, everyday custard tarts forever more,
but it's worth it. Antiga Confeitaria de Belem,
Rua de Belem, 84-92, Lisbon Tel: 21 363 7423
www.pasteisdebelem.pt
PETISCOS
Majestic street kiosks (quiosques) selling simple
snacks and drinks have been part of Lisbon's
culture for 100 years. So have petiscos, the local
answer to Spain's tapas, in which you cover the
table with small dishes. Now one of Portugal's
most talked-about chefs, Nuno Mendes, who
made his name with experimental Viajante and
Portuguese Lisboeta in London, has returned
home to take over the oldest and most beautiful
quiosque in Lisbon. Petiscos is not just a way of
eating, but a way of living, dipping into colourful
octopus salads, crunchy calamari (squid)
sandwiches, platters of anchovies and salt cod
croquettes on little tables shaded by old trees,
with a glass of fresh, light Portuguese wine or the
local vermut. Quiosque de Sao Paulo, Praça de
São Paulo, Cais do Sodré @quiosque.saopaulo
BOLENHOS DE BACALHAU
For 2,000 years, the Portuguese have been
curing fish with salt and drying it in the sun to
preserve it. Bacalhau, or salt cod, is an essential
part of Portuguese cuisine, known as the
"faithful friend" of the people. Croquettes of salt
cod known as bolenhos or pasteis, bound with
potato and deep-fried to golden crispness, are
the most fun way to get your salt cod fix. Buy
them from a tasca (family-run café) in Porto, or
dine at the upmarket Laurentina or A Casa do
Bacalhau for the full experience. With twelve
branches across Porto, ambitious newcomer,
Casa Portuguesa de Pastel de Bacalau, goes for
drama, presenting a single salt cod croquette
with a melting heart of Serra da Estrella cheese,
together with a glass of white port as a package
deal. pasteldebacalhau.pt
C ROQUE T TES
FROM PA STEL DE
BAC A LH AU
PATEIS DE
N ATA'S
Bacalhau: Portugese or
Norwegian?
