Viking Cruises

52 | Viking Explorer Society News Bonjour, BORDEAUX A trip to the vineyards of Bordeaux inspires a thirst for more than just the wine. Written by Cassie Wilcox. "If you want to learn about wine, stop buying books. Buy a corkscrew." I am in a vineyard on the Château Prieuré-Lichine estate in the Margaux appellation of the Bordeaux region of France. This sage advice comes from our Viking guide Elisabeth who trained to be an oenologist at the vineyard under the tutelage of one-time owner Alexis Lichine. When he died in 1989, she reveals, he was buried in the middle of the vineyard, surrounded by his beloved grapes. I confess that I know very little about wine. So it was both surprising and rewarding to discover that after just a few days visiting vineyards and wine estates, I managed to retain some basic knowledge, including what to look for when buying wine: AOC (L'Appellation d'origine contrôlée) the highest classification, means that the wine came from a specific region such as Bordeaux; how much to pay (anything from €13 to €2,000 a bottle); the importance of how the vines are grown and tended; and how the terroir affects the vines. Of course, you don't need to be a wine connoisseur to enjoy the Châteaux, Rivers & Wine river journey, a leisurely voyage along the Garonne, Dordogne and Gironde. If, however, you do want to learn more about viticulture there are plenty of opportunities to do so. Or if, like me, you simply love France, you are in for a treat. Our journey began in Bordeaux where we boarded the Viking Forseti. Being greeted by our Hotel Manager, Programme Director, and housekeeper felt like a genuine welcome home. Warm and friendly, the service was impeccable from start to finish. In the city of Bordeaux everywhere you look is a photo. Elegant stone buildings with wrought-iron balconies and not a shutter out of place, mansard roofs, pretty, cobbled streets and the grandest of grand buildings and public spaces – all of which are just a 10 -minute walk from the ship. With over 350 monuments, the old city is one of the world's biggest UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Yes, it is old (ancient in parts) but what is also striking is how clean it is. In 1995, "La Belle Endormie" ("The Sleeping Beauty") underwent a regeneration programme to wash away centuries of soot from its buildings. The once dark limestone buildings glow bright in the sun, and this jewel of a city is wide awake. Honoured as a City of Art and History, Bordeaux is now described as a 'Little Paris' of beautiful boulevards, Gothic and Baroque churches and lovely parks and gardens. Bordeaux's good fortune began in the 12th century when Duchess Eleanor of Aquitaine married Count Henri Plantagenet, who soon became King Henry II of England. The city near the mouth of the Garonne flourished, largely due to its wine trade, and was eventually incorporated into the Kingdom of France. The 18th century was another Golden Age for Bordeaux. It was Louis XV who sent his man Louis-Urbain-Aubert de Tournyto 'modernise' Bordeaux, and his vision can be enjoyed today. No French king ever believed the notion that less is more. The buildings along the Garonne are very grand—in the 18th century riverside houses provided an excellent way to show off the wealth of the city to visitors. The most recognisable and the most stunning is the Place de la Bourse with its mirrored pool reflecting an ensemble of classical French architecture. Sipping a café au lait on the marble pavement outside the Grand Théatre (the inspiration for the Opera House in Paris), it's easy to imagine the city in centuries past. Yet Bordeaux also offers plenty to please today's travellers, including great shopping. At two kilometres long, Rue Sainte-Catherine is the longest pedestrian shopping street in Europe and it is here and on the adjoining streets that you'll find lots of independent shops as well as the big names, including Galeries Lafayette. Also worth browsing are the lovely galleries, antique shops and inviting cafés in Rue Notre Dame in the Chartrons neighbourhood, just a 5-minute walk from the ship. Should a restorative glass of wine be in order, head to École du Vin (Bordeaux wine school), which has a wine bar frequented by locals and is little known by visitors. Ask for half glasses of the day's recommendations and you can enjoy a wine tasting par excellence. Wine is, of course, a theme of this itinerary and the focus of many excursions. Viking is known for its onboard enrichment programme which enables guests to gain a deeper understanding of the regions they are visiting. Our evening lecture A Journey Through Taste was a fascinating presentation about how wine and food can enhance each other's flavours. After an overnight in Bordeaux, we sailed to Cadillac, founded as a bastide when today's France was ruled by both the French and the English. Impressively, 700 years later, much of the fortress wall remains intact, making it easy to see how invaders would have been intimated by its façade. And there was plenty to protect. Clockwise, opposite page: A pretty square in Bordeaux; the region is known for its vineyards; the market in Libourne sells local food and wine; the town of Saint-Émilion is surrounded by vineyards; a clock marks one of the entrances to the city of Bordeaux

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