Issue link: https://viewer.e-digitaleditions.com/i/142338
regionalstopover Just shy of being classified a mountain (it's 286 metres high and 300 is required to make the grade), the pink granite monolith smack-bang in the centre of the city can be seen from pretty much everywhere, and has awesome views of Maggie and the many sprawling suburbs of Townsville. And despite the steep winding road being about three kilometres long, it's a hugely popular walk or run for locals keen on losing a few kilos or just keeping fit. I struggle, but then see kids four and six years old keeping up with supermums pushing prams, and forge on, pretending I'm not the most unfit person on the almost-mountain. After descending the Hill to the 'Ville (as the locals call it), it's high time for some refreshment, so I head to C Bar on the Strand, which is a walkway surrounded by beautifully kept gardens and parklands, flanking Townsville's beachfront. At this iconic seaside café, perched on the cliffs with an uninterrupted view of Maggie, I indulge in some people-watching and pore over a fantastic menu packed with northern Queensland produce. Famous for its apple-andcinnamon pancakes and the spot for locals to hang out after a few 'straps' (laps of the Strand), it's also a great place to watch the sun rise over a hearty fry-up, or the sun set with a vino or cold beer in hand. Wildlife warriors Townsville is home to the world's largest living coral reef aquarium and the main education centre for the Great Barrier Reef. It's a fun, interactive aquarium where visitors can watch playful leopard sharks being fed by the staff, and get up close and personal with the myriad species that coexist on Australia's UNESCO World Heritage-listed reef. The aquarium was the vision of Dr Graeme Kelleher, who was once chairman of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority. Kelleher's aim was to create an accessible, affordable Great Barrier Reef on land, while spreading a conservation message and thus gaining public support for the protection of the real reef. Reef HQ Aquarium also has a turtle hospital, a haven for sick and injured sea turtles, where they are nursed back to health and then set free in the wild. All species of marine turtle found on and around the Great Barrier Reef are considered threatened, so the work is crucial for the survival of these beautiful, gentle reptiles. The hospital operates under and promotes the C.A.R.E (Conserve. Act. Rehabilitate. Educate) philosophy, and it plays a key role in educating people about threatened species and nature conservation. Since opening in August 2009, the hospital has released 36 rehabilitated turtles back into their natural habitat. Night on the town A visit to the 'Ville would not be complete without a night out on the town. And the nightlife in this rapidly growing city is really impressive. In fact, as the mining boom has brought a lot of young things with money to burn to town, it's absolutely pumping. Dressed up to the nines, women in sparkling dresses and skyscraper heels totter through the streets, and everywhere, especially on weekend nights, there are groups of people literally spilling from the bars and restaurants. Kick off a night with some tasty Italian/Mediterraneanstyle food at Sugatrain Lounge Bar & Café on Palmer Street, Townsville's popular dining precinct. From there, choose from a ridiculous number of bars and pubs. And at some stage, on some trip to Townsville, you might end up at the Mad Cow Tavern. With an affronting frontage of vivid blackand-white cow-print patterns, the Mad Cow is the place everyone heads when everything else closes. And it's hard to miss – day or night. This time, I don't choose the Mad Cow to wrap up my trip. Instead, I find a cool stool at the Heritage Bar, and from there I watch the streams of people passing – laughing and enjoying life in a thriving regional city that can no longer be called a big town, no matter what way you look at it. But that's the best thing: you can live half an hour away from the big smoke on Maggie Island, if you want nature, peace and solitude. And if you want some action, the 'Ville has it in spades. Far North Queensland's burgeoning hub has the best of both worlds. "Just shy of being classified a mountain (it's 286 metres high and 300 is required to make the grade), the pink granite monolith smack-bang in the centre of the city can be seen from pretty much everywhere." XXII Previous page: Ferry to Magnetic Island; a rocky shore on Maggie. Clockwise from above: A leopard shark at Townsville's Reef HQ aquarium; Maggie has a colony of tame rock wallabies; the beachfront in Townsville; one of Maggie's pristine beaches; Magnetic Island pier.