Issue link: https://viewer.e-digitaleditions.com/i/122153
food&wine It's only natural Patrick Haddock meets the producers behind Australia's organic and biodynamic food and wine movement and concludes that the proof is in the tasting. The organic scene in Australia has long been gathering momentum, but have everyday consumers really embraced organics, or is it just a luxury for the wealthy and the virtuous? One thing is certain: Pesticides, E numbers (food additives), hormones and fertilisers can all be avoided. As Biological Farmers of Australia says, "Organic food is not a luxury. It's how food is supposed to be." Explained simply, organic produce is grown and processed without the use of pesticides, synthetic fertilisers or GMOs (genetically modified organisms) and with a focus on environmentally sustainable practices. Organic food is not just chemical free; organic farmers take a holistic approach to food production and handling, linking everything from soil, plants and animals to food, people, the environment and health. Say cheese If you want to taste the difference between organic and non-organic, clearly you only need to try organic milk, and where there's milk, eventually there's cheese. In the Adelaide Hills, Udder Delights was surrounded by certified organic and biodynamic dairies, prompting the cheese company to make a range of products using organic milk. Co-owner and cheesemaker Sheree Sullivan is amazed at the difference in quality between normal and organic milk. "We may pay more [for organic milk] but the end product is worth it – the creaminess of the cheese is amazing," she says. So why did they decide to produce an organic range? "There's an undercurrent of organics in the Adelaide Hills and we saw a gap in the market – as far as we know, there's no-one else doing an organic blue or white mould cheese." When you're in the Adelaide Hills, stop at their cheese cellar in Hahndorf and try their Divine Dairy range, or visit their website to see where their products are distributed nationally. Perfect pairings Cullen Wines in Margaret River is cultivating the symbiosis between organic food and wine with an on-site restaurant that complements winemaker Vanya Cullen's fabulous biodynamic and organic wines. For how long has Vanya's winery embraced organics? "Since the beginning, 41 years ago," she says. "We have created a legacy about caring for the environment. This includes minimal chemical input, and organic – and now certified – biodynamic practices. We are just continuing the journey." Cullen's executive chef David Hull uses sustainable produce, including organic meats, vegetables and fruit, to create the freshest-tasting dishes possible. Paired with Vanya's wines, the dining experience is sensory overload. Using vegetables (and meats) that taste exactly as nature intended, David works hand in hand with the gardener to work out what to grow each season. As a result, Vanya believes you get "a sense of place in the wine and the food". I ask Vanya which food-and-wine match should not be missed if you make the pilgrimage to this WA winery. She recommends the roast beetroot "As Biological Farmers of Australia says, 'Organic food is not a luxury. It's how food is supposed to be.'" 22