Issue link: https://viewer.e-digitaleditions.com/i/111460
lastdrop Above and previous page: Illustrations from Cumulus' Climbing and Rolling wine bottle labels. 36 it's under ripe you'll end up with green flavours without enough tannin weight. When I tried Cumulus' 2011 merlot out of the barrel, I had to admit the winery had struck the perfect balance with fruit ripeness, good tannins and amazing concentration – characteristics that are missing in many other Australian merlots. Cumulus is firing across the board, doing taut, modern chardonnay, as well as savoury, dry rosé and deliciously medium-bodied shiraz with enticing cool-climate spice. The wines are divided into the Rolling and Climbing labels according to the altitude at which the fruit is picked. Speaking of diversifying, the guys at nearby Printhie have their eyes firmly fixed on sparkling as a local hero to take on Australia's premier sparkling sites, Tasmania and the Adelaide Hills. The team at Printhie worked closely with a producer from Champagne, France, to get to grips with sparkling production, and the results are worth it. This year they released two wines under the new Swift label – a non-vintage and a vintage – with a blanc de blanc to be unveiled in the next two years. The plan is to build a sparkling processing facility (the first of its kind in the Orange region) that will allow other producers to utilise the space and encourage increased sparkling production. Of course, riesling is another unsung hero in Orange, with the cool climate and high altitude providing perfect growing conditions when the vintage is right, and in 2012 it was favourable. At the recent National Wine Show in Canberra, the Logan Weemala 2012 riesling was awarded a gold medal thanks to its unique stylistic qualities. Another riesling aficionado in the Orange region is Gerald Naef from Patina Wines, who makes no less than three styles: dry, off-dry (sweeter) and dessert. He's a passionate advocate for the variety and potential of riesling. It's fair to say Orange has a bright future as a wine region, consistently proving that Australian cool-climate wines can be hot. The pick of Orange Cumulus Climbing Merlot This delicious wine reveals a plum, dark chocolate and slightly herbal edge before a gorgeous weight of berries and spice that is seamless and long, with grainy tannins. De Salis Lofty Pinot Noir It has a very attractive perfume of lifted raspberry and redcurrant with a beguiling sappy pinot character that's perfectly judged. The palate is nicely balanced between red fruits and spice, and an even web of tannins, which makes it all too easy to drink. Patina Scandalous Riesling Starts off with hints of mandarin and citrus, with a tight minerality. The palate reveals a lemony, chalky freshness with a good burst of sweetness balanced by citrusy, fresh acids. A very interesting style that's worth seeking out. Patrick Haddock is a wine and food writer, blogger and communicator. Two of his children sleep in beds, the rest age in a cellar. Visit: winingpom.com.au