Issue link: https://viewer.e-digitaleditions.com/i/111460
food&wine really fight with tannins, but a wine with some residual sugar will go nicely with most cheeses." In Tasmania, where dairy farming proliferates, cheese is big business. Besides the enormous success of King Island Dairy, another established cheesemaking business that has been taking cheddar to the next level for more than a century is Pyengana Dairy Company. "The lush, green valley of Pyengana has been producing cloth-bound cheddar since 1898," says Lyndall Healey, wife of cheesemaker Jon, who is the grandson of one of the original cheesemakers. The secret to the quality of their cheeses, says Lyndall, "is owning our own herd of cows so we have total control over milk quality from the grassroots to the cheese vat". When I ask Lyndall what is the biggest difference between Pyengana cheddar and cheeses from Europe, she says, "You have to remember we're dealing with cheeses that have been made for hundreds of years. A lot of these European cheeses are made from unpasteurised milk, which gives them amazing flavours and a competitive advantage in the world market. But, generally speaking, we're holding our own!" Holding our own, indeed. Australian cheese offerings have never looked more exciting. The industry continues to gather momentum and offer award-winning styles that stand proud on the global cheese podium. 32 The art of cheese and wine Forget the age-old belief that cheese and red wine always pair well – it's not necessarily the case. Here are some other combinations to consider. Above: Pairing cheese and wine at Pyengana Dairy Company in Tasmania. • If you're drinking red wine, here's the rule: Soft cheeses, including blue vein and derivations, generally fight with tannins. The only exception to the rule is a fortified wine such as port, which is one of the best matches with stilton. • On the whole, blue soft cheeses tend to pair well with white wine, particularly a sweet white such as sauternes. Milawa Blue is a brilliant match with Brown Brothers Patricia Noble Riesling, says Milawa Cheese Company's Ceridwen Brown. • Goat's cheese, such as La Luna by Holy Goat Cheese, works well with a French sancerre or a complex sauvignon blanc such as Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand, or Patina Sauvignon Blanc from Orange. Both of these wines would also work well with Binnorie Dairy's Marinated Fetta. • The esteemed Pyengana Cheddar from Tasmania is a great pairing with a local pinot noir such as Bay of Fires or Freixenet. • Bangalow Cheese Co.'s Brooklet Brie and Tintenbar Triple Cream go well with a modern Australian chardonnay such as Hoddles Creek or Oakridge Over the Shoulder, both from the Yarra Valley.