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drivetime Round-up sometimes daily," she says. Offering clothes, furniture, homewares and collectables, the markets offer plenty of bargains. I nab a 1920s travel alarm clock for a steal at $12. Ballarat is surrounded by other noteworthy destinations; the Mornington Peninsula, Bendigo and Daylesford (spa country) are all just a scenic drive away. However, veer off the beaten track and there's more to the region, as I discover in Clunes. Visting this historical village of 800 people is the perfect remedy for any stressed-out suburbanite. The 30-minute drive to Clunes cuts through rolling green hills and canola fields bursting with yellow, and I pass kids on quad bikes herding dairy cows – it's postcard-perfect. Stepping out of the car, I feel like I've walked onto a movie set. In fact, I discover the town's main drag, Fraser Street, has been the backdrop to many period films, including Ned Kelly (2003). Originally put on the map as Australia's first payable gold town in 1851, Clunes is experiencing a comeback. Since 2007 it has been an official Book Town, hosting a world-class literary event each May that sees more than 60 book traders and thousands of tourists awaken its sleepy streets. "The town has really come a long way. We have several generations here now. Growth usually simmers gently, but this is the best I've seen it," says Jane Lesock, Clunes' Female Citizen of the Year. "More and more people are settling here now that the 'tree change' thing is trendy." Jane heads up the hole-in-the-wall Enoteca, which doubles as a cellar door for Mount Beckworth Wines, the business she runs with her husband, Paul. In this coldclimate region, chardonnay and pinot noir are the drops of choice, but cabernet merlot is their largest crop; it's deliciously rich and a strong seller, too. Jane insists I try the "famous bruschetta" from the greengrocer next door and, within minutes, Jos the greengrocer materialises with a plate of it. "You can order from any of the shops and sit in whichever one you like," Jane enthuses with a neighbourly spirit unheard of in a big city. Back in Ballarat, there's a hotbed of culture bubbling away in a scene that strikes a balance between city living and country charm. With festival themes ranging from food, beer and wine to bikes, cabaret, rockabilly and even begonias, it's a veritable feast for culture vultures. Lovers of fine art must visit the Art Gallery of Ballarat, the oldest and largest regional gallery in the country. Steph Wallace, a local artist and the owner of Red Brick Gallery and Emporium, says the arts scene in Ballarat is blossoming. "There has been a major influx of creative folk drawn to the city's affordable housing and studio spaces. It's an ideal place to create and design." From what I can see, those creative types are on to a winner. 26 get there Ballarat is 110 kilometres west of Melbourne, a 90-minute drive from the CBD. STAY Quest Ballarat 7–11 Dawson Street North, Ballarat 03 5309 1200, www.questapartments.com.au Craig's Royal Hotel 10 Lydiard Street South, Ballarat 03 5331 1377, www.craigsroyal.com.au EAT & DRINK Eclectic Tastes 2 Burnbank Street, Ballarat 03 5339 9252, www.eclectictastes.net Lydiard Wine Bar 15 Lydiard Street North, Ballarat 03 5327 2787, www.lydiardwinebar.com.au EXPLORE Art Gallery of Ballarat 40 Lydiard Street North, Ballarat 03 5320 5858, www.balgal.com The Mill Markets Ballarat Woolshed 9367 Western Highway 03 5334 7877, www.themillmarkets.com.au MORE INFO www.ballarat.vic.gov.au