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– 17 – www.paradises.com Portuguese dishes and Chinese food. Tibetan restaurants are plentiful in the hill towns and are very inexpensive. If hot food disagrees with you stick to tandoori-style dishes, which don't have hot spices, or chicken cooked Muslim-style after being lightly spiced and added to a casserole with dried fruits. Shopping Shopping is an experience in itself in India. Be prepared to bargain for the best price in the many bazzaars and emporiums (as a general rule, you can expect to pay almost half the initial asking price if you're prepared for some serious haggling). There are many wonderful handicrafts from Kashmir's hand- loomed rugs, furs, papier-mâché utensils and pashmina shawls, jewels and brassware from Jaipur, and silks from Varanasi and Bangalore. For souvenirs, Delhi's famed bazaars won't disappoint, and are teeming with eclectic homewares, clothing, pashmina scarves, and more. Chandni Chowk Bazaar, located in the heart of old Delhi is comprised of a series of interconnecting crowded walkways littered with stalls hawking everything from books, clothes and shoes to electronics, amidst the pervading smell of Indian food—the best bazaar to experience the 'real' India. For those who wish to return home loaded with quality yet well priced souvenirs, Janpath is a must-visit. Just a short walk away from Connaught Place, Janpath Bazaar has stand alone street stalls, permanent shops and a f lea market, selling quality homeware items such as bright and ornate throws, wall hangings, lamps, rugs, embroidered cushion covers, vases, and much more, as well quality clothing and a plethora of trinkets. Also at the Central Cottage Industries Emporium on Janpath Rd and nearby, along Baba Kharak Singh Marg in New Delhi, are various state emporia each run by their state governments. Activities Indians all play hockey, cricket, polo, football, volleyball and basketball, and in the hill stations ponies can be hired for excursions to the glaciers' edge. Ski resorts at Gulmarg in Kashmir and Auli in the state of Uttaranchal are popular for snow skiing and heli skiing, and also some of the Himalayan snowfields to the northeast and near Shimla. The season runs from December to January. There's whitewater canoeing on the Ganges' tributaries and on the Zanskar, Indus, Chenab and Lidder rivers in Kashmir. Ballooning has become popular with a club at Safdarjung Airport in New Delhi. Other activities include camel safaris, trekking and hang gliding in the Himalayas, or exploring woodlands and orchards of the Western Ghats or Aravali hills. — I n d i a —