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FAMILY TRAVEL who follows her around like a puppy dog. We take a donkey ride down the cliff-face through Berber villages, and kids call out to us in an effort to practise their English. Even in remote areas, Moroccans speak a smattering of English as well as French, Arabic and Berber. BESIDE THE SEA Three hours' drive west, on the Atlantic coast, is a different world. The long crescent beach at Essaouira is lined with cafés, restaurants, swings and parklands. Here children ride horses (and the odd camel), play soccer and kitesurf. A few minutes' walk along the cobbled streets brings us to the historic fortress town of Essaouir, built in the mid-18th century. No cars are allowed within the walled city, so our luggage – and the kids – are bundled into a wheelbarrow and pushed through the narrow laneways to our self-contained apartment. It is painted in the white and blue typical of the area – and inside it is bright and sunny. Essaouira is also known for its Argan oil, a rich antioxidant used in cooking, skin and hair products. The kids are transfixed as a tribe of goats climbs a tall Argan tree to reach the nuts. We all have a go at grinding the inner nut, the oil of which has become one of Morocco's biggest exports. SHIPS OF THE DESERT From here, many tourists drive for four hours over the mountains to the Sahara Desert. But that's too arduous for small children so our guide, Carol Prior from travel specialist Morocco by Prior Arrangement, suggests an oasis in the desert at Agafay, an hour from Marrakesh. La Pause is glamping (glamorous camping) at its best. The mud and straw huts travel&living 45 TOP LEFT One of the delicious dried fruit stands in the Jemaa El Fna. TOP RIGHT Outdoor dining in a Berber tent at La Pause – glamping at its finest. BOTTOM RIGHT A traditional tea ceremony at Tnine.