Travel & Living Magazine

FAMILY TRAVEL spellbound Bustling souks, sandy beaches, majestic mountains and endless deserts: Morocco is simply a feast for families. STORY AND PHOTOS TRACEY SPICER DISNEYLAND HAS NOTHING ON JEMAA EL FNA. Walking towards this marketplace in the heart of Marrakech, I'm swept into a world of throbbing drumbeat, snake charmers and the smell of searing lamb's head. Our three-year-old crouches beside a fully fanned cobra, while our four-year-old kisses a monkey on the lips. Fortunately, it's safe: The cobras are de-venomed and the kids are inoculated. During our month in this mélange of Africa, Europe and Arabia, we discover that Morocco is the ideal family destination. THE RED CITY Framed by the snow-capped Atlas Mountains, Marrakech or the Red City as it is called thanks to its salmon-pink buildings, is a postcard. In the medina, the old fortified town, there are hundreds of dars for rent. These are multi-story family homes, built around a central courtyard. Ours comes with housekeeper/babysitter/cook Hakima, who prepares superb tagines, soups and salads. Each day we wander through the labyrinth of souks: the kids practise their French while haggling with shopkeepers and we ride a horse-drawn cart through the Gueliz – the new city – dodging buses and taxis and women carrying olive jars on their heads. Moroccan olives are bright pink and make a colourful snapshot when piled high next to red-gold saffron and yellow-brown cumin in the souks. In this gourmet paradise, a cooking class at La Maison Arabe is a must. The 71-year- old teacher used to cook in the palace of King Mohammed VI, the country's leader. My chicken and olive tagine doesn't have the same velvety texture as hers, but the zaalouk, or eggplant salad, is perfectly piquant. The following night we devour a seven-course degustation at Dar Yacout, a restaurant travel&living 43 LEFT The stunning courtyard at Dar Sana in Marrakech. ABOVE The view from Kasbah Bab Ourika, in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains.

• Cover