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FOOD entry to the restaurant is theatrical and food-centric. A candle-lit hall flanked by wines and dry-aged meats leads to huge double doors. It's the stuff of castles and fairytales. Leading Australian architect Grant Cheyne, who has worked on many Rockpool Group projects, created this one too, choosing an atmosphere to suit the locality. "We decided that this restaurant needed to be different to its two predecessors in the eastern states," he says. "It would be lighter, softer and relaxed." To achieve this, all furnishings, decorative light fittings, joinery and carpets have been custom-designed for Rockpool Bar & Grill Perth, and while the grand dining room makes a statement, there are smaller intimate areas too. "The media hype about this place was insane," says Masters, recalling the lead- up to the opening in January this year. Many thought we'd be doing fine dining, but we're not. It's great dining." The difference? "It's great because of the quality of produce and how it is treated," he explains. "We have a big place here – 250 seats – and it's not realistic to do the sort of thing that happens in French Laundry, for instance." Masters wants people to understand that Rockpool is a bar and grill. Yes, it's stunning, yes, the staff is expertly trained and the produce is only the best. But it is not haute cuisine. "I've spent the whole of my life doing fine dining," says Masters, and it's clear he relishes this chance to work in another medium. "We use amazing beef and fish from reputable suppliers." Masters emphasises. "The tide is turning in what to expect. When we first opened I had an amazing lobster omelette with prawn sauce on the menu, and people went 'it's just an omelette!'. But it was how it was cooked, and what the produce was that set it apart." Masters is keen to educate people to separate tricky overworked dishes from 'fine' dining. He is clear that Rockpool is a steakhouse restaurant despite the impressive surroundings and the top- notch service. Even though there are 850 wines on the wine list, many from Western Australia, and the menu leans towards the red end of the meat scale, fish and seafood are also featured. "I love my fish," says Masters, "and I've found a great seafood supplier, Partridges Seafood. The owner is really into his fish. He only deals with the best." The excitement in his voice is a clear indication of what Masters feels is true fine dining. The Rockpool Group has seven restaurants and Neil Perry's philosophy has now spread to the furthest edge of Australia. Asked about his mentor, Masters is quick to respond. "No one has done more for Australian dining – Neil creates trends, and has nurtured some of this country's greatest food talent." It seems Dan Masters is yet another one of those great talents, and he's happily rocking a few dining preconceptions in Perth. Rockpool Bar & Grill Perth Burswood Entertainment Complex, Great Eastern Highway, Perth, WA. (08) 6252 1900 www.rockpool.com travel&living 27