Issue link: http://viewer.e-digitaleditions.com/i/131994
lastdrop The rise of the somm Patrick Haddock meets the new rock stars of wine. Sommeliers are the new rock stars. If you don't believe me, consider this: In March this year, the ASI Contest of the Best Sommelier of the World was staged in Japan. The event, which takes place every three years, was attended by 4,000 people, who were enthralled to watch the finalists battle it out by doing a mock service in which they had to pour a magnum equally between a group of 10, answer ridiculously tough theory questions and recognise wine personalities just by looking at pictures. Welcome to the brave new world of the sommelier (aka 'somm'), where the mind boggles at the sheer knowledge and practical polish they need to keep up in the world of fine wine service. Among the contest's 12 semifinalists was our very own Franck Moreau from Sydney's Merivale Group, who came seventh in the world. Already a master sommelier and gifted taster, he has reached the pinnacle of excellence in his profession. Long gone are the days of the snooty wine waiter who stared down his nose and made the pursuit of choosing something you wanted to drink an expensive bout of insecure misery. No – these days, the somm is your best friend, ready to share with you his or her latest discovery. And with the globe seemingly getting smaller, we are now exposed to a much wider range of obscure and interesting imports. In many ways, sommeliers are like the new media: often able to 'break' wines before the critics do, as they are using social media to sell their wares – enticing Instagram shots of wines and matching foods – and to ensure their followers know what's available. "The sommelier has the more influential place in the market, and it's good they have a louder voice, but the thing that has changed for sommeliers is the rise of the profession in the public's eyes and, with that rise, increased trust in the voice of the sommelier," explains Stuart Knox, former The Sydney Morning Herald Sommelier of the Year and owner of Fix St James wine bar and restaurant. I suggest to Knox that there used to be a mistrust of the sommelier as the person whose role was to get you to spend money on the best bottles. I ask him whether a hangover from this perception exists, and whether the customer's best interests are truly being looked after. "If you're selling what you believe in without giving a thought to what the customer actually wants, you're doing both of you a disservice," Knox responds. "I get so many limited-release wines at Fix, so the thought of selling one to someone who doesn't like it is horrible to me – a wasted opportunity and a waste of wine!" The role of the sommelier has definitely changed for the better, giving rise to a crew of wine-savvy individuals who are bubbling with enthusiasm and ready to share their vinous jewels with you. Show interest and you'll be rewarded with an eye-opening wine experience. Patrick Haddock is a wine and food writer, blogger and communicator. Two of his children sleep in beds; the rest age in a cellar. Visit: winingpom.com.au 39